Steve O Smith's win of the Karl Lagerfeld award in last year's LVMH Prize marked turning point in his career, and his latest collection result of the award, with Smith using the money to elevate his living illustrations ever-nearer to haute couture.
The collection is a masterful blend of inspiration from Otto Dix, Edward Burra, and Madeleine Vionnet, with Smith's fluid drawings at the center of his work. The synchronicity of these influences sent Smith off on one of his painting sprees, transposing character sketches into loose interpretations of flapper dresses and fragile bias slip dresses.
The collection is notable for its use of color, with color to his black and white register for the first time. His washes of red, dabs of pink on peach, and patches of brown were layers of hand-dyed tulle, the lines are cut-outs superimposed on organza and, where Smith's illustrations suggest free-hand bows, they're minutely beaded.
The attention to detail is a hallmark of Smith's approach, and the collection is a testament to his innovative approach to fashion.
Smith's loyal customers have been a driving force behind his success, with many willing to commission and wait for their pieces of art/fashion to be made for them. In his interview for the LVMH Prize, he pitched for spending the cash on building an expert team in London, so he can push his techniques further. The team, which includes an amazing cutter, embroiderer, and sewer, all come from couture backgrounds, and have been instrumental in helping Smith to achieve his vision.
As Smith noted, "So now we've assembled this team... and we're now in a studio that's not my living room. So that's a pretty big one." With his team in place, Smith is well-positioned to continue to push the boundaries of fashion, and his slow fashion approach is a sound niche and the wider industry.
Looking to the future, Smith is cautious with his finances, ring-fencing the LVMH money to ensure that he doesn't spend it all at once. This discipline is inborn in a generation that's grown up with having to be resourceful through the pandemic. As Smith noted, "I've been ring-fencing the LVMH money, so I don't spend it all at once."
With his focus on slow fashion, meticulously made for private clients, Smith is well-positioned to continue to succeed in the industry, and his latest collection is a testament to his innovative approach and commitment to quality. One day soon, he should really do a runway show, to see the soft bounce of the poufs, the flutter of the godets, and how impeccably that red shaded jacket fits in movement.
