Lauren Manoogian shifted the label's visual centre, introducing metal-woven fabrics that move knits from primary identity to a supporting, textural role. For spring 2027 the brand layered loomed, crinkled and raw-edged materials across silhouettes usually associated with its calm, neutral knits, creating an unstructured texture that reorients the collection's mood.
The Story in Pictures
Designers Lauren Manoogian and Chris Fireoved framed the season as a "dynamic textile story," applying knotting and other knit techniques to both woven and knitted pieces. Manoogian used three different types of metal-woven fabric to generate pewtery crinkles and a metallic sheen across trench coats, collaged-panel dresses and a Lurex tank shown with what she called the brand's "first real jeans," an intentionally relaxed, roomy denim for the label.
Many loomed fabrics featured wrinkled surfaces and raw, unraveled edges, while some trousers created a wrapped-leg look with what Manoogian described as a "huge inverted pleat." A roomy vest with shoulder pads and oversized trousers carried shaggy trims, and a brimmed hat made in collaboration with Japanese milliner Kijima Takayuki paired with a short, bell-shaped khaki jacket to suggest a fisherman sensibility for one ensemble.
The collection also leaned into craft details: an airy vest was hand-knit from strips of fabric that resembled raffia, and a holey knit with polka-dot voids was engineered on the loom rather than cut afterwards. Fireoved even ran a magnet test on the metallic fabrics and reported the metal content was not enough to cause a reaction.
Manoogian and Fireoved are expanding the label's menswear offering, informed by retail observation at their store. Fireoved noted that while the plan had been to simply increase size ranges, the pattern of buying surprised them, with "men buying the smaller sizes and women... getting something more oversized." He concluded, "It’s working in a way we didn’t expect." That shopper behavior undercuts simple assumptions about gendered sizing and signals a commercial shift the brand is already navigating.
