Mary Katrantzou has shifted the label's tone, moving beyond safer seasonal florals toward mythic, painterly spectacle.
The collection arrives as Christopher Nolan's The Odyssey dominates headlines and IMAX screenings in New York City are already sold out for mid-August dates, though Katrantzou has not seen the film. Still, its classical drama appears to have threaded into her work. "We set out to create prints of fantastical mythological worlds," she said, framing the project as a deliberate return to narrative-rich motifs.
Her runway output has been narrower of late. Katrantzou recently took on the creative director of accessories role at Bulgari, and at her own label she pared back to two seasons a year while leaning toward customer-friendly florals and animal prints. Resort 2027 reverses that retrenchment, reintroducing maximalism through richer embellishment and painterly landscapes that feel intentionally ambitious.
The show opens with an event dress built from lavish cascades of ruffles, a detail that recalls her fall 2019 runway work, one of her last large-scale shows. A pair of standout looks use fully sequined breastplates, their circular forms creating side cut-outs above narrow skirts. Elsewhere the print takes center stage, large-scale panoramas rendered with high intensity. "I wanted it to be borderline with something that looks hyper-real, hyper digital, and really pushed in terms of its intensity," she noted, describing the visual aim.
The effect is theatrical rather than domestic. Katrantzou appears intent on dressing archetypes from myth and tragedy, garments better suited to Helen of Troy or Clytemnestra than to a housebound Penelope. The collection signals a renewed appetite for drama within the label's seasonal offerings, a calibrated gamble that pairs wearable detailing with an amplified graphic language.
