Melusine shifted its Spring 2027 playbook toward a commercially minded medieval romance, softening prettiness with menswear references and armour motifs so the clothes read as usable, not costume. The collection reintroduces the brand’s metallic “chain mail” knits in new asymmetric cuts, pairs a cap-sleeve armour top with ruched slip silhouettes, and debuts a T-shirt-and-cape hybrid that aims to make statement dressing feel effortless.
The Story in Pictures
Designer Stephen Biga built the season around a Gothic cathedral filter and cinematic martyrdom. He named the label after the medieval water nymph Jean d’Arras recorded in 1393, and he drew visual ballast from Theodore Dryer’s 1928 film The Passion of Joan of Arc, mining that figure’s blend of faith and masculine attire for texture and tension. Biga’s résumé, a Parsons education and stints with Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and Gabriela Hearst, shows in the collection’s disciplined balance between romantic frills and tailored restraint.
Practical details softened the drama for everyday wear. Popular leggings returned with a ruffle at the ankle, a two-layer soft jacket introduced an edgier silhouette, and one pair of pants used a thin burgundy inner belt to create a peeling-off-the-body effect. On that belt Biga nodded to skate culture, saying, "Thrasher kind of shoelace skateboarder belt from the '90s." A blouse that has already sold well was cut from a print developed from a 1700s fabric swatch, and the same motif appeared on a ruched dress offered in both the print and a solid colour.
Not every detail landed. The season’s raw-edge disruptions, intended to check the sweetness, sometimes read as contrived rather than organically derived from the design process. Still, Biga is positioning Melusine for gradual change rather than a breakneck reinvention, keeping signature elements in rotation while testing tougher accents. That cautious approach suggests the label will continue to evolve incrementally, letting commercial favourites coexist with more experimental pieces.
